How to Properly Apply Retinol
A Step-by-Step Guide from Dr. Bomer:
Retinol is one of the most powerful ingredients in skincare — known for its ability to stimulate collagen, reduce fine lines, smooth skin texture, and clear breakouts. But applying it correctly is crucial to get the full benefits without irritating your skin.
In this step-by-step guide, Dr. Kelly Bomer, a renowned expert in aesthetic dermatology, shares exactly how to apply retinol properly for optimal results.
Step 1: Start with a Clean, Dry Face
Before applying retinol, cleanse your face thoroughly and make sure all products applied beforehand are fully absorbed. Dr. Bomer emphasizes that your face should be completely dry — no lingering water from washing or brushing your teeth. Moisture can increase the penetration of retinol, leading to unnecessary irritation.
💡 Pro Tip: Dr. Bomer recommends brushing your teeth before applying retinol to avoid moisture splashing onto your face afterward.
Step 2: Apply Pre-Serums (Optional)
In her routine, Dr. Bomer applies TNS Recovery Complex and before retinol. This professional-grade product supports skin renewal and pigment correction and should be applied and allowed to fully absorb before you begin your retinol step.
Step 3: Use a Retinol Appropriate for Your Skin Tolerance
Dr. Bomer uses Jan Marini Retinol Plus MD 1%, a high-strength retinol. However, she notes that you should always start with a lower concentration, especially if you're new to retinol or have sensitive skin.
🧴 Start low and go slow: Gradually increase your concentration and frequency over time to build skin tolerance without causing peeling or redness.
Step 4: Apply Retinol Strategically
Use a pea-sized amount or one full pump, depending on your product and tolerance level. Dr. Bomer spreads the product evenly between her fingers before applying:
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Start at the edges of the face — the skin here tends to be less sensitive.
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Move up to the forehead, along the jawline, and down the bridge of the nose.
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Save the more sensitive central areas (like around the mouth and chin) for last, when there's less product on your fingertips.
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Carefully apply near the eyes — staying about a finger's width away from the lash line. You can reach the brow bone and the inner corners of the eye socket, but avoid getting too close to the lashes.
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Feather the product outward into the hairline, over the earlobes, and under the jawline. Don’t forget the edges of your lips and nose creases, which are common zones for buildup and breakouts.
📍 This careful layering minimizes irritation in delicate areas and ensures more even product distribution.
Step 5: Follow with a Moisturizer
Retinol can be drying, especially in the early weeks of use. Dr. Bomer emphasizes the importance of applying a moisturizer immediately after retinol to help lock in hydration and maintain skin barrier function. Shop Moisturizers.
Step 6: Always Protect Your Skin While Using Retinol
While Retinol is one of the most effective ingredients in skincare for boosting collagen, refining texture, minimizing fine lines, and clearing breakouts — but it also comes with some important responsibilities. While it transforms your skin over time, it also makes your skin more sensitive to the environment, especially the sun. One of Dr. Bomer's favorite tinted sunscreens is Colorescience Sunforgettable Face Shield Glow SPF 50.
Final Thoughts
Applying retinol the right way is essential to maximize its anti-aging and acne-fighting benefits while minimizing dryness, peeling, and sensitivity. Dr. Bomer’s technique is rooted in years of personal experience and clinical expertise and is ideal for anyone looking to get serious results with retinoids.
Key Takeaways:
- Always apply retinol to clean, dry skin.
- Avoid getting skin wet after applying Retinol.
- Start with a lower strength and build up as your skin adjusts.
- Apply to less sensitive areas first, and save the delicate zones for last.
- Avoid the eyes and lips directly, but don’t forget areas like the jawline, hairline, and earlobes.
- Always use sunscreen while using a retinol product.
Always moisturize after and use broad spectrum skin protection to protect and soothe the skin.
